Turtle Duffle Coat
Garment
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Collar
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Sashiko Back Saddle
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Pocket
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Pocket
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Sleeve
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Toggles
Design
The initial inspiration is the duffle coats that were popular in the 1940s. I changed the design a bit, adding a center front zipper, three piece hood, fishtail hem, adding raglan sleeves, and widening the sleeves.
Fabrication
For the back saddle I hand quilted in the kame sashiko pattern some beige gabardine wool to several layers of wool filling. I also dyed the hemp rope for the toggles with indigo
Patternmaking
I began with the Oranda ski jacket pattern. I made the hood less fitted like in the ski jacket, and took out the face front. I then patterned the upper and under stormguard as part of the front pattern piece instead of sew on. I also added the duffle coat tabs. Widened the sleeves into straight sleeves. Added button clasps on the sleeves. I also lengthened the jacket and made the patch pockets bigger.